Even if my foot was 100% and I was able to walk everywhere I don’t think Aquaba would have been much better. Its merely a gateway to Jordan unless you are keen on water sports of which I am not. Yes they have glass bottom boats and I have no idea how much they cost as the seem to be operated by complete nutters that play their music at 11, so I have no interest.
I’m not a beach lover but I do like sitting near the water. There are cafe’s all along this part of the coast but there is nothing appealing about them. They play loud music and coupled with the clowns operating the boats it is not relaxing and the coffee served is instant Nescafe. Finding a proper cafe here has not been easy and when I did it was not worth the effort.
Egypt broke my will to live and Jordan has just broken me, well badly sprained me. I would love to return to Jordan in the future and I would hire a car and go to the Dead Sea and the Dana biosphere and of course I would return to Wadi Rum, I may combine it with a second trip to Luxor and Abu Simbel just to make it worthwhile as its a long way to come from Australia. On my next European adventure I will pencil it in.
There’s part of me that would prefer to return home and get fit before continuing the journey but I think I’ll be able to do most of what I had planned, apart of course walking copious amounts. It’s just as well I picked the hotel in Istanbul because its literally 20 mins away from most of the places I wish to see and my ankle does look and feel better today. The flexibility is improving and the swelling is down, I really noticed this when I put on my sandals because I could nearly lock the clasp which has not been remotely possible.
Hopefully I can put this behind me and let it disappear into memory and oblivion and at the same time not forgetting of just how fragile our physical bodies can be.
When I reflect on life, of my sixty two years on this planet I have asked myself the question “Who is watching over me?”
Numerous times in my life, more than I will divulge in these ramblings, my life or wellbeing has been in danger and I have come through it relatively unscathed. Mind you there are times such as now I have been given a warning which I will heed, hopefully, and learn from this latest episode which happened due to my stupidity. If I were a cat I would have used a few lives but now.
I have never sprained my ankle like this before. The pain and the shock of what I have done has well and truly sunk in, although they did not materialise at the same time. The pain in my ankle was instant, well after I came to rest from the fall. I remember lying slightly on my left side trying to grab at the rocks because I was not sure where I was or how far I fell. I looked down and saw my right leg in front of me and I looked to the left and saw my phone and retrieved it and slowly sat up. Then the pain kicked in. I moved my leg and toes and thankfully they still worked, but the fire began to grow.
I checked the rest of me and everything seemed to be in order apart from a few cuts and grazes. I was shaking, in shock I guess. I moved a few metres away to a shady spot and ate and drank and to ponder what to do next.
I really thought I was fucked, I didn’t think I was going to find my way back because the route I took was out of the question and the pain in my ankle was getting worse.
Life can change in an instant for better or for worse as we all know, so easy to say the words but you really need to let that sink in. Before my fall I took a few paths that lead to nowhere and to some dangerous terrain and I backed up quick smart because I realised the danger, I think I thought I’d beat anything presented to me within reason, I over estimated my abilities.
I’ve had a few nightmares about this fall. I’ve also asked myself what the fuck was I thinking in my dreams. My subconscious is obviously pissed off with me too.
Five days after the fall my foot and leg are still swollen, although not as much. I went to the pharmacy this morning and got a proper ankle support, anti inflammatory tablets and some cream and if I follow the directions all going well by the time I get to Istanbul I’ll be able to walk slowly but surely.
This blog that I write is no more than ramblings at times, but I enjoy it and I think others do too. I don’t care if anyone reads it, I do it for me to reflect on when the mood takes me and I’m pleased at times because some things I have produced are no bad š
I’m not ready to leave this life, in fact I have many things I wish to do but I’ll always be curious as to whom my guardian angel is. I have my own thoughts on that but I’ll keep that to myself for now. Oh and I have thanked them for the outcome of my latest adventure.
I’ve known three Eva’s in my life, there’s Eva Airlines which I like, there was the evil Chinese child that used to bite me and every other child in the class and then there is Old Polish Eva who appeared in front of me as I came back to my cabin. This old withered creature was very animated and threw questions at me as if her life depended on them.
I answered her questions and I even asked a few myself. Apparently she has her own business , although after knowing her for a few days I feel that this is a figment of her imagination. She is like a leech but instead of blood its your of life force that you feel slowly disappearing into the desert night sky.
I unfortunately agreed to her coming on the jeep tour with me, but I least she paid half. All the way through the journey she wanted to record where we stopped, the only app available was Google Maps which I find easy to use, but the creature Eva was one of those folk that are proud of their ignorance and yet they want you to do the work for them. I showed her twice how to do it and that was that. She was also quite rude to the young driver because he could not understand her broken English and his was limited. I translated and then told the young driver that she was fuckin’ nuts and just ignore her, he laughed and gave me a high five.
When we got back to the camp she was talking to herself about the fact she could not find the map points, I didn’t help and when she did finally come ask me I made her work for it.. Fuck her!
Thankfully I was saved by some new Polish lambs that walked into the camp and she befriended them quick smart and so I could once more sit and have dinner with out being pestered.
I went to sit and watch the sunset a few hundred metres from the camp and after 20 minutes or so I shifted to the other side of the canyon and it was just as well because here she came the psychopath muttering to herself about god knows what. She was only metres away from me but she walked right passed because she was focused on???? , if she had stopped I was ready to tell her to fuck off as I wanted to watch the sunset in peace and quiet.
She had asked me why I was limping and I told her and she recommended some form of green smelly clay which cures everything and if that isn’t available just piss on your leg. I was also informed that she will drink her own urine at least twice between slugs of water. Too much information.
She is travelling in Jordan using the couch surfing option and she is hitch hiking too. Before I realised she was a complete and utter nutter I had offered that she could share the taxi as we were both heading the same direction, however if I had seen her this morning I would have driven straight on.
Her backpack for five weeks is smaller than my backpack that I would use for a day walk.
She told me that one time when she arrived at the Homestay she had to share the bed with someone, if feel sorry for the poor bastard that would have to share with her. There are many weird folk out there, the joys of travelling.
After last night’s amazing dinner and entertainment I slept like a log. I thought it might be cold but the blanket that was on the bed made it rather toasty.
I got up just after 7:30 and went over for breakfast, looks like I was the first one there. Breakfast had many veg dishes and one curry looking thing along with bread and plenty of tea so it was not bad, not as good as dinner last night mind you.
An old Polish woman arrived at the camp yesterday and took a shine to me and she had stuck to me like glue ever since and so when I told her that I was doing the desert tour today she asked if she could tag along….. I said “sure” because that way we can share the cost. She is weird and I will dedicate a whole chapter to her.
The desert landscape of Wadi Rum is spectacular and there are so many photo moment. And I was also surprised to see just how many other tours were out and about. It was busier than the M8 in places.
We stop at a variety of places, however one place will be recognisable to those that have watched the movie The Martian. Well maybe you won’t. But there is one scene where the “Martian” is standing on a crop of rocks and in the distance you can see the mountain range that was in the movie.
We stopped at many locations and the last place we went to we could see the writings of the Nabateans high up on the rocks. Of course there always seems to be someone selling souvenirs at some of the better stops.
Great day out after spending the morning reading my book and sunning my injured foot.
Oh I nearly forgot, we went to the cave of Lawrence of Arabia.
My foot didn’t look as swollen this morning when I woke up but it was still a challenge to walk down for breakfast, I made the mistake of wearing sandals as I thought this would be a good choice but it was not.
I had to make a trip to the currency exchange which is only a five minute walk away, however when one of your feet is not working to capacity it takes quite a lot longer. I put on my boots again, the ones I had on yesterday when I fell and I really tightened them up to give my ankle maximum support and it felt not too bad. Walking down the hill was a bit more difficult than coming up. I passed one shop and the young shop owner said to me “you’ve dropped something” I turned round and he said “you’ve dropped your smile” I had to laugh. He asked me why all foreigners never smile? I said “I’m not sure, but for me it’s because I’m in a little bit of pain”
On the way back I stopped for coffee and grabbed a snack for later and then settled in for a quiet evening. I had a hot shower which was a wee bit challenging but I made it safely back to bed in front of the TV. I strapped up my ankle after I put on some smelly anti inflammatory cream and it feels OK. I can wiggle my toes which must be a good sign although my foot has a few different shades appearing.
Tomorrow I’m going to Wadi Rum, to the desert where I will go out on a desert trip in a jeep on the second day. I guess I’ll have to see how the healing process continues because I think walking in sand might be a bit of a problem.
Three days in Petra, the first day to go into the old city and go to the Monastery and then day two is to walk from Little Petra to Petra. I’d read about this walk and knew that it would be challenging and at times the path was a bit vague but I thought I’d give it a go.
I followed the path in front of me for nearly two hours stopping from time to time to take in the scenery which is spectacular. You have to scramble over rocks and of course back down at times. I reached a small plateau where the path split and so I checked the map only to discover I was way off course. I could have followed the road that snakes around but I chose the more scenic route, so I thought, across the rocks.
I’d bitten of more than I could chew by going this way and ran into many dead ends and going through some dangerous terrain and all I wanted to do was get back to the main track.
Eventually I heard goats, and so I followed the noise and then I saw them below and finally managed to get down with a sense of relief.
I looked at my map again and found the track that I missed the first time and as it was still early I decided to give it a go. At first it was easy to follow and then became a bit vague. I was descending a steep section when I slipped slightly and my foot got caught in the rocks and the next thing I know I’m flying through the air, head over heels and landed on my back on the rocks below and my right ankle is not happy. I lie there for a bit assessing the damage. My phone is lying beside me and the cover screen is cracked. My ankle is not happy because I’ve twisted it when it got caught in the rocks, it’s not broken thankfully.. I’ve just twisted it but I’ve done a good job.
I gather my things and sit in the shade and reflect on the last few minutes and realise how stupid I’ve been, I should have just left when I was back in the main path because this walk is too much for me.
I eat and drink some water and then I have to find a way out because I cannot go back the way I came because its too high to climb back up. My ankle is complaining at every step but my boots are good and they help me. About an hour passed and then I hear the goats once again and as I go down into the valley I can see signs of life.
I stop and watch the procession of goats make there slow deliberate way down with all the confidence that I wished I possessed. Below a young girl calls to me and tells me to come down. A very slight young girl, dark skin and definitely a sight for sore eyes. She tells me to sit and asks me what happened.
She tells me that the drop of point for the bus is not far and she will take me there. Sitting down for that five minutes seems to have made my ankle worse or maybe its the adrenaline that has dissipated. I hobble slowly and my guide tells me that she is 21 and her name is Petra. She gives me a gift of a silver ring, not sure if that means I’m engaged.
A few hundred yards from the pick up point I stop and thank her for her help and kindness and as all foreigners do we part with some cash. I’m so glad that she helped me get back, I’m sure I would have worked it out but it was a nice experience to chat with a local and also to know that I was not alone.
I shared a taxi back to town and my hotel were good enough to organise a bandage and cream to put on my ankle and later helped me to order pizza.
I wrapped my ankle up in a towel that I soaked in cold water and then strapped it up. Initially I’d made it too tight so I did it again and went to bed. In the morning it seems that the swelling had reduced and I was able I hobble down for breakfast but I won’t be going too far today. I have some washing to pick up which I’m not sure at this stage when I’ll attempt that.
I was very lucky. I was also very stupid. I’m also very grateful that I’m still here and that I got away with only a twisted ankle, even though it’s painful.
Today I’ll be in my room. Tomorrow I’m going to the desert for two days and then I have three days in Aquaba before flying to Istanbul and so hopefully by then I’ll be able to get out and about again.
I’ve been wanting to come here for years. The Nabateans were an amazing race of people who managed to tame one of the harshes landscapes in history. They turned the Wadi Musa into a very successful trading centre which thrived for many years until the Romans came and took over the business and then finally Mother Nature had the final word with an earthquake. We can only imagine what this place was like. Looking at what remains is quite remarkable.
The incredible entrance to Petra
The stunning Treasury building
There is so much to explore here and when you venture further into the valley you see the many dwellings that have been hewn from the sandstone and some places are tombs. There is even an amphitheatre that was carved from the rock rather than being constructed. This one sits about 4500 people and faces North so that the sun was not in the audiences eyes.
I continued on until I reached what they call the Monastery which is the largest carved monument here and then it was time for coffee and a snack at the end of the world with my new friend Captain Jack.
Captain Jack
Tomorrow I’ll hopefully go back to walk to Little Petra which to be honest I have no idea about.
I went to the Jordanian Museum today and I thought it was really interesting, especially the ground floor. The upper floor is mainly for students or children I thought.
It’s well laid out and you follow a path through the ages with artifacts dating back as far as 7500 BC. It’s staggering to think just how old that is. Ancient statues made from plaster with faces so delicate, I really enjoyed these.
Then we had the different forms of writing and how today’s languages evolved and much of it comes from this part of the world.
I spent nearly two hours in here taking my time to read and to study the exhibits and I felt that I had not wasted my time.
After here I headed to Rainbow Street, apparently the place to see but I’m not sure why. I left here and moved up to the adjacent street to where I saw a quiet Waffle House Cafe and went in there and had sausage and egg, French toast with blueberries and cream which is not a combination I have tried before but it was remarkably tasty.
What a relief to see clear skies as we flew into Jordan. Stepping outside of the terminal I was able to get some fresh air into my lungs for the first time in days. I had a driver meet me at the airport which was just as well because it was a forty minute drive to the hotel and I really didn’t want to figure out how to get there by any other means.
The hotel is in the downtown area and so it’s a little bit chaotic, however the room is relatively quiet and the bed is comfy, there is air conditioning and a hot shower. So all is well. The downside of Jordan is that it is expensive, the Jordanian Dinar is a very strong currency. $1000 does not go far.
It’s a very hilly city. If you were to stay here then I feel that your legs would be like an athletes, muscular and tight. I walked up one staircase to meet with an adjoining road and it had 200 steps. I had to stop briefly about two thirds of the way and by the time I got to the top my calf’s were complaining.
There is over five thousand years of history here and as the city had increased it has scaled the heights of the valley. I like the layout of Amman, it makes it an interesting place to wander around and although there are parts of it that are busy, compared to Egypt it is a doddle.