Category Archives: Travel Log

The Parthenon

The sun stayed in bed today which made Athens Baltic. I slowly climbed up to the top of the hill trying to be as gentle on my ankle as possible because this slight incline is stretching bits that I don’t want stretched.

It was busy and the walk through the streets was pleasant, some of the buildings are amazing. The Parthenon seemed to be a lot smaller than I thought it would be. On TV it always seemed so big but in reality, although impressive I maybe expected more. I’ve seen so many ancient structures on this trip and maybe I’m a bit worn out, mind you such a structure on top of this huge edifice is no mean feat. To build this complex of structures is still quite amazing and when you put it in context of the time period it was built then you really need to sit back and be impressed.

The next day the sun came out and I decided to go to the Corinth Canal, which I’ve always marvelled at. I got to the bus station and my travel card would not work on the ancient card machine and the atm didn’t like it either so it was back to plan b, museums.

The Archaeological Museum was very good, but it seemed that every school in the district was told I’d be there and sent every child possible. Some of the exhibits were off limits because of this but there was still plenty to look at.

Athens

When I finally made it out of the metro and back to the sunshine I stopped to orientate myself with Google so that I can get to my hotel. Immediately a black guy approaches and tells me that he likes my style, the same routine that they played in Italy.

I turn on my heels as I’ve found where I need to go and head to the main road. Another black guy is there and he watches me struggle with the big case and back pack. When I reach the other side I take the first right and continue on my way. The second black guy passed me and crossed the street and gave a piece of paper to an Indian guy who within twenty seconds asks if I speak English? I ignore him and continue along the street. The black dude turns right and disappears.

I stop at a busy intersection to check Google and then I’m on my way. The Indian guy reappears and passed me. I look around and its just me and him. After a few yards he tries to engage me in conversation and I ignore and walk on, I’m only about a minute away from my Hotel and there are people coming towards me. He turns off and I don’t see him again.

After I check in I go to my room and remove my jacket only to find it had been sprayed with some kind of, I don’t know. I go to the shower to try and remove it and that’s easier said than done.

Welcome to Athens I guess.

Heading to Athens

I’m glad to be leaving Santorini, there’s not much to do here considering I can’t hike anywhere and other than that it’s a small place out of season.

Getting to Athens will get me back on the culture and history trail once more, but it will be good to have more options and I’m hoping that this hotel will be better than the last. The Aquarius Hotel was booked because of location and price point but I was not really happy with the choice for the money spent.

It only had a hand shower which I think is fairly primitive in this day and age. This also made it a bit scary when I’m trying to have a shower on a very slippy surface with a dodgy ankle.

The room was cold and vast and not designed for winter, it might have been more pleasant in the height of summer but just now it was uncomfortable. With the aircon set to max I still had to wear several layers.

For breakfast you had to make your way outside every morning into the elements to get to reception and then ask them to prepare breakfast which was then brought to your room. Breakfast was simple and passable. There was a small table and chairs but again functional not comfortable.

A nice comfy chair similar to the one the Spanish Inquisition use would have been nice. There was no kettle, I had to ask for one. There was no water provided. The reception had a note saying open from 8am till 5pm however this was not the case, more often than not it was closed and I had to contact the hotel via WhatsApp and then it would be a fair bit of time before they returned.

This “Hotel” was, well I’m not sure what it was. I guess you pay a premium to stay in Santorini and this is what a hotel might look like but I was not impressed at all. My accommodation in the desert was much the same as here although slightly smaller.

I came here to see the blue domed houses and churches hugging the cliffs of this volcanic island and it was good to see this, but Santorini for me has not much else to offer…

Lost

I came to Kamari this morning for something to do and one of those things was to visit the old ruins of Thera. It’s only a 3.5 km walk but it’s all up hill via a zig zag road that winds its way up the very steep mountain. Even if it were a 100% fit this would be quite the challenge and as my ankle is a bit niggly this morning I ain’t going to even try.

I wasn’t sure just how steep it was but as I look at it I know that I ain’t got what it takes.

So I’ll just have to kill an hour or so until the bus arrives to take me back to Fira.

On more than one occasion over the passed weeks I find myself fighting Google maps and this has been really obvious here on Santorini, my inner compass is still well and truly embedded in the southern hemisphere. It’s just really bazaar the feeling you get when you look at the map and it just feels wrong. I look at the sea, I look at the map and then I decide which way to go and then I check the map and sure enough I’m 180° oot….. Go figure!!

Oia

I got the early bus to Oia, here you will find the many picture postcard images from Santorini. The stunning blue roof on top of the chalk white buildings. The place was deserted which I found very appealing, I think summer would be mental.

Most of the businesses are closed but for me that’s just fine, I had no intention of buying anything, I just wanted to come and see what all the fuss was about. It is a very pretty place and I’m sure living in one of the cliff hugging houses would be just grand. The downside of staying here is that there is no easy way to get your luggage or things to and from civilisation, the narrow passageways and copious amount of stairs certainly look pretty but would soon wear you out. Nevertheless I spent a pleasant hour or so just wandering around and the bonus of winter is that there are no people.

After I got off the bus in Fira I headed straight for lunch and had no choice but to get another bucket of red wine to get me through the day.

Santorini Day 2

I got the bus to Akrotiri, which is where you will find a prehistoric village site which dates back over 2000 years. It was destroyed many moons ago by the huge volcanic eruption that took place here, in fact this island had been shaped by volcanic activity over the years and you can still see quite clearly the remains of the caldera.

I took the bus which was great, comfortable and the drivers here were way more competent than those of Istanbul, it was good to watch the artistry of the gear change combined with the fluid movement of both bus and driver.

The old remains were just that, old walls crumbling and at all angles and it was difficult to see the shape of them and much had been fenced off so you could not get up close and personal. Interesting all the same.

As I discovered to my horror the bus for the way home was not expected any time soon and so I headed off to the main road, five km away. Not that far and it normally would not daunt me, however my ankle is still not 100% but it was good enough to accept this challenge, but walking along the side of a busy main road is not my idea of fun. At least the surface being level did not put too much strain on anything.

I got to the bus stop ten minutes before the bus, great timing and then back home. Its only about two in the afternoon but I’ve had enough for the day, so I bought two kebabs for dinner and headed home for an early evening.

I found a few things to watch on TV after I plugged in my USB drive and then cranked the air con to 30C and settled down. And by the way this hotel is so cold that even running the aircon at this ridiculous temperature it still feels cold, this place might be OK in the heat of summer but in winter it is Baltic.

Santorini

A lazy start to the day because breakfast begins at 8:30, which is half way through the morning as far as I’m concerned. I didn’t sleep well, it was cold so I’ll get more blankets for tonight.

First thing in the agenda was to get washing done and to check out the lay of the land. I passed three laundry’s that Google proclaimed open, however they don’t open until next month. I found one eventually and then went to the bus station.

I’m going to go to a couple of places on the island and the bus is the easiest and cheapest option. Information sought I headed home via the scenic route taking a few snaps along the way and then I found a small museum and so in I went.

Lots of small exhibits but still worth having a look, I’m always amazed at the skills and ingenuity of the ancients. They mastered skills and created familiar objects but in materials that we would not now consider, I really enjoy these places and when you see how old these items are it’s just mind blowing.

Most things in this museum were over 2000 years old.

Santorini

It was dark and cold when I left for the airport this morning. As we neared the airport the snow was becoming heavier. I was wanting to leave istanbul and I was hoping that the gods saw to it.

At check in I was very surprised to be told that my bags would not be transferred all the way through to Santorini and that I would have to collect my bag and then check in again all in the space of an hour. I told the guy he was dreaming and he gave me some bullshit story and just let my bag disappear into the system. I argued with him but to no avail.

When we landed I headed to passport control and asked if I could skip the queue and the guy told me I had plenty of time even though there were over 100 passengers waiting in front of me.

I approached him a second time and this time he did a few more sums in his head, counted on his fingers and then told me to go through. My bag was waiting for me, how nice. I ran as fast as my ankle could cope and got checked in once again. Found the gate and even had time for a coffee before we boarded the plane, which was a small 50 seat prop.

Very bumpy take off and landing, the wind and snow had returned and we got our monies worth. All the while the sun is shining but the wind chill would cut you in two. Its only a short flight to Santorini, less than an hour which is good. I have a car picking me up so I’m being quite the jetsetter and I like it. But it’s also expensive.

My driver is there and takes me to my hotel high on the hill, this is going to be a kill or cure moment for me ankle. After about ten minutes or so I head down to find the main street and see what’s what. I get a sim card, and then a kebab

I’m still hungry so I pop into the supermarket and buy a few supplies. I’d passed a small taverna and the menu looked good and there were gas heaters burning so I’m thinking this will do me. Big cubes of meat in a tomato paste with rice and a bucket of red wine and I’m set. I park beside one of the wonderful gas heaters and shed a couple of layers, this is the life. I’ve been looking forward to this part of the journey and I’m actually looking forward to getting back to the house and the car and go sit in my own home, but for now I’m going to indulge on Santorini.

Tomorrow I’ll explore and get my clothes washed. See what’s on offer and check out the buses and the like. The weather is supposed to get slightly warmer but that’s OK as long as the rain and the snow stay away that will be just fine.

A strange day

The snow was gently falling when I was having breakfast and the sky was heavy. The Bosphorus off in the distance looked like a huge land mass, a large block of grey ice but of course it wasn’t. The seagulls were forever hopeful that one of the guests would brave the weather and give them food, but no one was daft enough.

The wind had died down a little, however the temperature has also dropped. I made my way to Decathlon, the sports store to find some warmer clothes. When I reached Taksim Square I had about a ten minute walk and I was like ice by the time I reached there.

I bought two thermals and two beanies along with a polar pair of gloves and do those gloves make a difference? Yes they do.

Back on the tram and head for home, but first I stopped at the Pudding Shop to have lunch which was absolutely delicious. Beef and veggies wrapped in pastry and barley rice with some kind of butter bean. It didn’t last long.

Back to the hotel. The sun is beginning to shine and the snow continues to fall but it won’t come to much at the moment and I’m hoping it stays that way because I’m flying in the morning to Santorini.

I’ve not got much more to do here. I’ve popped out for coffee and I might have a snack but lunch might get me through till the morning but I’ll not be able to have breakfast because it does not begin until 8 am and I’ll need to be on my way by 7:30.

If I can find A Danish and a banana that will hit the spot.

Istanbul is Cold

It’s bitter this morning, at breakfast the seagulls seemed to be suffering. One of the other guests took pity on them and braved the elements to give them a bit of cake which they duly demolished.

The sky is full and grey this morning, such a difference to yesterday when the Shepherds warning was there. The rain is steady and it looks baltic. I check the weather forecast and it says real feel – 3C, I did not expect this and I’m regretting not buying the desert head gear that I could have gotten in Jordan.

Not sure what to do today because it’s pissing down and I’m not too keen on going too far. Google tells me it’s 8 minutes to the Archaeological Museum which will no doubt be closer to half and hour for me as I hobble along. Mind you it’s only really my ankle that is swollen now, the rest of my foot is looking and feeling not too bad and my black and blue toes are looking resplendent.

I go to the museum and the heating is off, so it’s not much better inside than out, well at least it’s not raining. After an hour of wandering my core temp is dropping and I’m almost shivering whilst looking at some of the incredible things on show.

I head straight to the Pudding restaurant that I went to yesterday and got soup and goulash accompanied by cooked barley instead of rice…. It was great and brought my core back to normal.

What to do next? I opt for the double decker bus city tour, well at least I can sit and watch the world go by without being cold and wet. Initially I listened to the commentary but it sounds so clinical and the reader sounds bored and I’m not really bothered if the Sultans of Swing built this mosque or not and so I replace their headphones with mine and listen to some sounds as we drive around this huge city in the rain.

We crossed a very high suspension bridge and the wind is blowing a gale and I’ve been in a similar situation years ago cruising over the flyover at Glasgow Airport in KSD92W, my trusty Volvo Decker. At one point I had the steering wheel almost half a turn facing into the wind just to keep the bus in line and on top of this I had the foot planted on the floor to get off that bridge as quick as possible but not our driver, she thought it would be more responsible to put on her hazard lights and sit on about 40 kph….what the fuck, this is only prolonging this dangerous situation. No sense of adventure or maybe just no sense!

There seems to be much and many other things to do in Istanbul, however the three or four things I wish to see will be sufficient for me for this trip, the weather is definitely playing its part in this decision but I also don’t want to walk too far here….. there are a lot of cobbles and uneven surfaces which are just just waiting to pounce. Tomorrow I’ll go to the Haigh Sophie and wait in the queue wrapped up like the Michelin Man as the snow falls about ❄️