All posts by Shug

Petra Day 2

Three days in Petra, the first day to go into the old city and go to the Monastery and then day two is to walk from Little Petra to Petra. I’d read about this walk and knew that it would be challenging and at times the path was a bit vague but I thought I’d give it a go.

I followed the path in front of me for nearly two hours stopping from time to time to take in the scenery which is spectacular. You have to scramble over rocks and of course back down at times. I reached a small plateau where the path split and so I checked the map only to discover I was way off course. I could have followed the road that snakes around but I chose the more scenic route, so I thought, across the rocks.

I’d bitten of more than I could chew by going this way and ran into many dead ends and going through some dangerous terrain and all I wanted to do was get back to the main track.

Eventually I heard goats, and so I followed the noise and then I saw them below and finally managed to get down with a sense of relief.

I looked at my map again and found the track that I missed the first time and as it was still early I decided to give it a go. At first it was easy to follow and then became a bit vague. I was descending a steep section when I slipped slightly and my foot got caught in the rocks and the next thing I know I’m flying through the air, head over heels and landed on my back on the rocks below and my right ankle is not happy. I lie there for a bit assessing the damage. My phone is lying beside me and the cover screen is cracked. My ankle is not happy because I’ve twisted it when it got caught in the rocks, it’s not broken thankfully.. I’ve just twisted it but I’ve done a good job.

I gather my things and sit in the shade and reflect on the last few minutes and realise how stupid I’ve been, I should have just left when I was back in the main path because this walk is too much for me.

I eat and drink some water and then I have to find a way out because I cannot go back the way I came because its too high to climb back up. My ankle is complaining at every step but my boots are good and they help me. About an hour passed and then I hear the goats once again and as I go down into the valley I can see signs of life.

I stop and watch the procession of goats make there slow deliberate way down with all the confidence that I wished I possessed. Below a young girl calls to me and tells me to come down. A very slight young girl, dark skin and definitely a sight for sore eyes. She tells me to sit and asks me what happened.

She tells me that the drop of point for the bus is not far and she will take me there. Sitting down for that five minutes seems to have made my ankle worse or maybe its the adrenaline that has dissipated. I hobble slowly and my guide tells me that she is 21 and her name is Petra. She gives me a gift of a silver ring, not sure if that means I’m engaged.

A few hundred yards from the pick up point I stop and thank her for her help and kindness and as all foreigners do we part with some cash. I’m so glad that she helped me get back, I’m sure I would have worked it out but it was a nice experience to chat with a local and also to know that I was not alone.

I shared a taxi back to town and my hotel were good enough to organise a bandage and cream to put on my ankle and later helped me to order pizza.

I wrapped my ankle up in a towel that I soaked in cold water and then strapped it up. Initially I’d made it too tight so I did it again and went to bed. In the morning it seems that the swelling had reduced and I was able I hobble down for breakfast but I won’t be going too far today. I have some washing to pick up which I’m not sure at this stage when I’ll attempt that.

I was very lucky. I was also very stupid. I’m also very grateful that I’m still here and that I got away with only a twisted ankle, even though it’s painful.

Today I’ll be in my room. Tomorrow I’m going to the desert for two days and then I have three days in Aquaba before flying to Istanbul and so hopefully by then I’ll be able to get out and about again.

Petra

I’ve been wanting to come here for years. The Nabateans were an amazing race of people who managed to tame one of the harshes landscapes in history. They turned the Wadi Musa into a very successful trading centre which thrived for many years until the Romans came and took over the business and then finally Mother Nature had the final word with an earthquake. We can only imagine what this place was like. Looking at what remains is quite remarkable.

The incredible entrance to Petra

The stunning Treasury building

There is so much to explore here and when you venture further into the valley you see the many dwellings that have been hewn from the sandstone and some places are tombs. There is even an amphitheatre that was carved from the rock rather than being constructed. This one sits about 4500 people and faces North so that the sun was not in the audiences eyes.

I continued on until I reached what they call the Monastery which is the largest carved monument here and then it was time for coffee and a snack at the end of the world with my new friend Captain Jack.

Captain Jack

Tomorrow I’ll hopefully go back to walk to Little Petra which to be honest I have no idea about.

Day 2 Amman

I went to the Jordanian Museum today and I thought it was really interesting, especially the ground floor. The upper floor is mainly for students or children I thought.

It’s well laid out and you follow a path through the ages with artifacts dating back as far as 7500 BC. It’s staggering to think just how old that is. Ancient statues made from plaster with faces so delicate, I really enjoyed these.

Then we had the different forms of writing and how today’s languages evolved and much of it comes from this part of the world.

I spent nearly two hours in here taking my time to read and to study the exhibits and I felt that I had not wasted my time.

After here I headed to Rainbow Street, apparently the place to see but I’m not sure why. I left here and moved up to the adjacent street to where I saw a quiet Waffle House Cafe and went in there and had sausage and egg, French toast with blueberries and cream which is not a combination I have tried before but it was remarkably tasty.

Amman

What a relief to see clear skies as we flew into Jordan. Stepping outside of the terminal I was able to get some fresh air into my lungs for the first time in days. I had a driver meet me at the airport which was just as well because it was a forty minute drive to the hotel and I really didn’t want to figure out how to get there by any other means.

The hotel is in the downtown area and so it’s a little bit chaotic, however the room is relatively quiet and the bed is comfy, there is air conditioning and a hot shower. So all is well. The downside of Jordan is that it is expensive, the Jordanian Dinar is a very strong currency. $1000 does not go far.

It’s a very hilly city. If you were to stay here then I feel that your legs would be like an athletes, muscular and tight. I walked up one staircase to meet with an adjoining road and it had 200 steps. I had to stop briefly about two thirds of the way and by the time I got to the top my calf’s were complaining.

There is over five thousand years of history here and as the city had increased it has scaled the heights of the valley. I like the layout of Amman, it makes it an interesting place to wander around and although there are parts of it that are busy, compared to Egypt it is a doddle.

Backsheesh

I hope Jordan is not like this. Everyone wants money from you for literally doing nothing. It might be if they show you which direction to go. They ask you a question and then it might finish with the outstretched palm.

I’ve just arrived at the airport after my short commute across the air bridge and when I go through the first lot of baggage security some lackey tries to take my case from me and so I tell him no thank you. He then approached the couple in front who have a few bags on a trolley and give them the same spiel and then immediately asks for money. His side kick warns him that I am watching and they covertly exchange some cash. He does the same with the guy behind me and proceeded to put his bags in front of mine at which point I removed them and put mine back in front and then told him to bugger off. I’m really fuckin’ sick to the back teeth with this nonsense. Everyone in Egypt seems to break the rules and many look like they have.

I just went to the departure gate and bought a coffee at the cafe there, by the way… Its shit!

Oh and to make things worse there are two staff and several other people smoking to their hearts content right under the no smoking sign. I mean what the fuck? If the security is doing it then everyone may as well join in. My lungs are only just beginning to recover, I’ve still got a niggly cough which is only being made worse by these fuckers.

At this point I’m ready to go postal. I just hope that Jordan is an improvement 😭

On a clear day!!!

A Gaggle of Americans

Appeared from the lift and proceeded to noise the place up with their whoops and the like as they gathered around the tour guide. Selfies and chatter took place for the next twenty minutes upsetting the ambience of the cafe and disturbing my own inner peace that I have just managed to acquire after two weeks in Egypt.

They’re definitely not self conscious and certainly don’t seem to have any decorum… But they are a strange species that you could study for years. They are very dangerous creatures and should certainly not be underestimated. As you know they like to shoot first and ask questions later.

Le MƩridien

Five star hotel at Cairo Airport. I had an epiphany at two o’clock this morning. I’d tried to go to sleep early because I was just exhausted. I found my earplugs, stuck them in and the next thing I know it’s 1 am.

I’m thinking to myself as I hear the noise coming from the street below that there has to be a better way . I decide to leave the next morning which is one day earlier than planned and then I can spend the night in Cairo and recharge the batteries.

This hotel Le MĆ©ridien is rather expensive, it’s just under the $300 mark, however I can walk to the terminal tomorrow and the room is quiet and I need a little bit of TLC before I move on to my next country which is Jordan. This is the expensive leg of the trip. All the hotels should be good on this leg, and in fact I think all the budget stuff has been done.

The bus trip here took four hours and that was a bit of an adventure. As in China they like to play really loud movies as soon as your arse hits the seat, thankfully I had my earplugs handy from last night and they seemed to do a pretty good job. The woman next to me was not impressed and asked someone to talk to the driver and he turned out down. The movie seemed to have the same depth as A Fast and Furious movie, so shite.

Shortly afterwards as we approached midday the old dear next to me dug out her Koran and started to have a chat to the big man upstairs. It’s funny you know on the planes they tell everyone to pray from their seat and of course she did the same. Mind you I’ve noticed in certain parts of Cairo there are prayer mats set up in certain places were I guess you can get your thing on and bang a gong.

So I’m now sitting in the sports bar having been fed and I’m also on my second glass of red wine so I should hopefully sleep to night, however my nose is currently decided to stop working so it might not have been a good idea to have had two glasses of red as I’ve not had a drink for months. But you only live once and I may as well indulge while I can.

I’m leaving Alexandria

I’m checking out a day early, I just can’t face staying here one day more. I’ve not really done or seen anything but I just can’t cope with the noise, the pollution and I just want a good night’s sleep. I’ve booked into an airport hotel which is costing a small fortune but if rather do that too escape the misery that is Alexandria.

Maybe if I had come here at the beginning of the trip I might have been a bit more sympathetic, but Egypt wears you down if you travel the way I have. I guess if you are on a private tour and you only get to meet and see the things you are supposed to your view might be somewhat different but I’ve never really enjoyed sanitised travel. At least the way I do it I can see warts and all however at times it becomes all too much as it has on this trip.I’ll no doubt look back on this fondly when the wounds have healed.

The two other countries that I’ve felt the same way about are Burma and India, both have some amazing places but because of what feels like exploitation by locals, the journey for me was spoiled.

My suggestion for Egypt if you are only interested in the ancient history of the Pharaoh’s then I suggest two days in Cairo to see the museum and Pyramids, go to Luxor and Aswan to see the wonders that they have left behind. These are all doable by yourself, no need for a tour guide unless you want one and you’ll save a fortune. Many times said tour guides were using Google to get much of the information that they would then dramatise, save your self the money and buy a sim card at the airport.

The other thing to note about the tour guide is that you only have them for a short time and so they tend to rush you through some of these wonders which is something I could not abide.

Alexandria

On the surface Alexandria looks quite nice when you see the pictures of the esplanade and a new area called the Corniche but don’t be fooled. I arrived yesterday and wish I could leave today, Egypt has broken me. Well I think it was more Cairo, however the constant hassling you get on a daily basis takes away from what might be a great experience. There are more and more subtle ways they use to lull you into submission to take what they are offering.

If I do return it will only be to see Abu Simbel and maybe Luxor as there is so much to see there that you could spend weeks.

I’m staying not far from long crescent coast line which just happens to be the heart of the city and so the traffic can be intense and guess what at night time there are horns a plenty and the cries of people shouting at each other, absolutely no decorum. But the smell of exhaust fumes is by far the worst. I’ll need a new pair of lungs after I leave here.

When I arrived yesterday I went for a walk along the esplanade after grabbing a couple of kebabs, mind you this time they were not good and so I ended up giving most of it to my new furry friend that appeared after a few short minutes. At least he seemed to enjoy it.

On the breakwater side there are huge concrete blocks which are not interlocked and so there are alleyways between where rather large rats roam feeding on the detritus that the locals throw away and I think if one of the cats had a fight the rats look quite capable of winning. The trouble is that most of the rubbish is just that…..mostly plastic from takeaway and empty water bottles and meanwhile the local bin man who patrols this area has an empty cart because all the shit is elsewhere. Just as in China I’ve seen so many people throwing their rubbish on the ground without a second thought. I look forward to the day when I’m watching the news and I see these giant rats ripping the locals apart and casting their bones into the sea.

I found my earplugs and came back to the hotel to try and catch up on sleep, I’m dog tired. I got up at about 3:30 pm and thought I’d better eat so I went to a restaurant across the road and ordered this rather large chicken breast and then proceeded to remove all the skin but it was still tasty. I never eat the skin of a chicken. This cost around $10 Aud and was definitely better than the street food I had the other day.

Counting the hours till I’m on the plane, to get away from this mental part of the world.